The sunset out there is really something else—all pink and fluffy-like—but I'd have to stand up and step outside to photograph it, so here instead is Shuhada Street. Once the city's busiest shopping district, it has been closed to Palestinians—and only Palestinians—since 2000. Which leaves soldiers, settlers, and foreigners. And dogs. There were maybe nine in this pack. They crossed the street when I got close. At night I could hear them barking, fighting, howling.